After much searching I found the British cemetery seven years ago; a corner of a foreign field hidden in the modern sprawl of houses and apartments that have grown up around it during the last four hundred years.
Forlorn and forgotten, the necropolis predates the days of the British Protectorate, the earliest bodies where interned here in the 1600’s. It is a legacy of the lucrative currant trade established and controlled by the Venetians. Such was the insatiable British appetite for these dried out grapes that many merchants established homes on the Ionian islands, thereby effectively ‘cutting out the middleman’ and export duties. One such merchant turned British Consul Sir Clement Harby, is buried within the extravagant mausoleum that dominates this cemetery. His final resting place, a sarcophagus hewn from marble is testament to his standing and wealth. Inscribed in both Latin and old English the front bears a sinister carving of a skull and crossbones – a bygone symbol of mans mortality.
Many of the later tombstones are relatively modest, particularly those marking the remains of the British servicemen who deposed Napoleons army from the island in the early1800’s. Ironically their deadliest enemy would prove to be cholera; showing no mercy to either their wives or children and these are perhaps the saddest epitaphs in this small walled graveyard.
The headstone of Hector Munroe is a stark reminder of the harsh realities of military life on Zakynthos in the 19th century. He was a Lieutenant with the Perthshire Volunteers or as they were nicknamed ‘The Light Bobs’ because of the regiments reputation as a fighting force. He lost his fight for life at the age of thirty-four on 3rd of August 1828. Most soldiers of his generation joined the army young and for life; it is very possible that prior to arriving on Zakynthian shores he served with his unit in the West Indies and Canada. It is also poignant to note, that seven years after his death, his regiment was ‘recalled home’ and disbanded, subsequently granting the surviving personnel freedom to leave service.
Time, weather and earthquakes continue to erode this historical burial ground and today the mausoleum poses a hazard as it is in danger of collapsing; crumbling headstones have become illegible - the names of the occupants forever lost and the Royal Coat of Arms that once marked the entrance lies against a dilapidated boundary wall.
Zante Magazine has been in correspondence with the co-ordinators of The War Graves Photographic Project (TWGPP) and pledged to record all the inscriptions for prosperity. To read more about this initiative and how you can help in other parts of Greece see the related article provided by TWGPP.
Meanwhile, here at Zante Magazine we are passionate about preserving this pocket of island history, if you feel the same way and would like to be involved and want to know more please telephone or contact. The idea is to form a group to restore and care for the cemetery. One enthusiastic volunteer has generously offered his time and skills though more volunteers are needed as are materials and funds. At present the cemetery is sealed-off from visitors and work cannot commence until the ground is made safe – watch this website for updates and progress reports.
The War Graves Commission do not financially assist graves other than those from WWI and WWII, with rare exceptions, Zakynthos is not among them.
read the THE WAR GRAVES PHOTOGRAPHIC PROJECT press release
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